By Julie Jacobus, CPDT, OSCT, ABCMT | Training by Julie and Associates, LLC
Housetraining woes are common problems for both brand new puppy owners and adopters of adult dogs. Problems vary, but consistency is key to the solution.
One problem involves a dog or puppy that has not been taught to eliminate in a specific area. In this situation, you simply teach the dog to eliminate where appropriate and prohibit the pet from using anywhere else. Managing your dog’s environment is important so he or she does not get the chance to eliminate in the house. If you cannot watch your dog closely, confinement is important.
Crate training is generally the easiest way to confine. To make the crate more appealing, always feed the dog in the crate. Not only will this make the crate an attractive place, dogs tend not to eliminate where they eat. If you cannot crate, you will need to confine your dog in a small area blocked off by baby gates, an exercise pen, or other barrier.
When training dogs to eliminate outside, always reward immediately after they eliminate there. Bring a couple of treats with you when you take your dog out, to reward as soon as your dog eliminates, and praise heavily. Let dogs know that nothing makes you happier than when they eliminate outside!
If your dog is eliminating in the house, a quick tip that can help is to place the dog’s food bowl in the problem location. Dogs avoid eliminating where they eat, so they often stop using the area.
I often encounter dogs unintentionally taught to eliminate inside. This happens when the dog is left outside for long periods, yet waits until he comes in to eliminate. These dogs will usually eliminate where the owner cannot see.
This kind of house training problem requires structure in the dog's life and a lot of disciplined behavior and consistency from the owner. Never correct the dog for eliminating in the house. The owner facing this problem must teach the dog to trust, not fear. One suggestion is to create a log of times the dog eliminates, including whether it was urination or defecation, and the location in the house. Then use the log to determine when to take the dog outside. For example, (keeping food portions and times consistent), if your dog urinated in the house at 6:30 p.m. one day, the next day, take the dog out at 6:15 pm. If the dog does not urinate while out, confine the dog and take him out again in ten or fifteen minutes. When the dog eliminates outside, praise and give him the freedom earned. Repeat the periods of confinement and taking outside until you achieve success. Remember habits take time to change.
Another kind of house training problem is the dog that marks territory inside the house. This problem is often associated with male dogs who have been neutered late or are insecure.
Insecure or threatened dogs have a tendency to warn others that a house (a territory) is occupied by scent marking. Since dogs cannot put up fences to keep intruders out, they mark to claim territory.
This can be a very difficult problem to correct, but success is possible. You need to teach the dog to eliminate on command, and if the dog is male, to mark on proper areas outside. It is important not to correct the dog in a way that makes the problem worse. Again, praise and reward your dog for marking in appropriate areas, and confine when you cannot watch your dog completely. In extreme cases, you may need to use a bellyband when the dog is unsupervised in the house. Take the band off when the dog goes outside to eliminate. Praise and repeat.
Another problem is submissive urination, which is not a housetraining problem, but a social issue. If your dog urinates when excited, upon greeting people, or when afraid, your pet has a submissive urination problem and you should not punish the dog for accidents.
If you punish a dog for this, you will only make the problem worse. Several things can help a dog suffering from submissive urination. First, keep all greetings very low key. When you come home do not greet the dog, walk past, enter the house, and go about your business. Over time, the dog will settle down, and you will be able to greet normally without causing the urination. You may also want to avoid eye contact and standing over your dog, which may make your dog feel insecure. You will need to build a strong bond of trust between you and your dog. Positive motivational training builds trust and confidence.
If a housetrained dog suddenly begins eliminating in the house, speak to your veterinarian immediately. No amount of house training will help a medical issue. If your dog is defecating more than a few times a day, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about changing foods. A high-quality, grain-free food generally creates a smaller, more compact stool, reducing the frequency and amount. Some good foods are very low in fiber, so try a few brands to see what works best.
Free feeding is not recommended for dogs: if you do not know when your dog is eating, it will be hard to determine when they defecate. I do not recommend restricting water without the advice of your veterinarian. When water is restricted, it can create the habit of guzzling water in large amounts, and higher input creates higher output.
The most important thing to remember is to never set your dog up to fail. Always be consistent, and praise the behavior you want. Punishment never helps with housetraining, and can compound the problem.
Training by Julie and Associates, LLC has been training dogs and their people for 13 years, and offers positive training through affordable, in home lessons in Southern Maryland, DC, and Northern Va., and group classes at seven locations. Training by Julie specializes in behavioral modification, including aggression rehabilitation, fearful, and shy dogs, and volunteers their time and expertise to seven rescue organizations.